Laotian Chronicle 5/6
By Lt. Colonel (TE-er) Antoine Marquet
Last Night in Mouang Khoua
January 26, 2024
After breakfast at our usual bistro, we grabbed the bag containing the meals the owner had kindly prepared for us and left town, backpacks on, heading to the pirogue landing stage where we had reserved ours the previous afternoon.
To our surprise, the departure was delayed, and instead of a pirogue equipped with comfortable seats, we had to make do with a simple 18 cm wide plank running along the floor on either side of the boat. It was there that I received my first injury in Indochina! My head struck the metal roof of the boat. No medical evacuation, no Geneviève de Galard to treat my wound… and I am an officer, after all!
After five rather uncomfortable hours of paddling, not due to the strong current but to the narrowness of the seats which forced us to regularly shift our positions, despite our sleeping mats folded in half, then in quarters, and finally in eighths, which flattened without any regard for our backsides, we arrived in Mouang Gnoi, on the old Ho Chi Minh Trail. There are "shelter caves" in this area heavily bombed by the Americans, who emptied the bomb bays of their bombers before landing at their base.
Last Night in Mouang Khoua
January 26, 2024
After breakfast at our usual bistro, we grabbed the bag containing the meals the owner had kindly prepared for us and left town, backpacks on, heading to the pirogue landing stage where we had reserved ours the previous afternoon.
To our surprise, the departure was delayed, and instead of a pirogue equipped with comfortable seats, we had to make do with a simple 18 cm wide plank running along the floor on either side of the boat. It was there that I received my first injury in Indochina! My head struck the metal roof of the boat. No medical evacuation, no Geneviève de Galard to treat my wound… and I am an officer, after all!
After five rather uncomfortable hours of paddling, not due to the strong current but to the narrowness of the seats which forced us to regularly shift our positions, despite our sleeping mats folded in half, then in quarters, and finally in eighths, which flattened without any regard for our backsides, we arrived in Mouang Gnoi, on the old Ho Chi Minh Trail. There are "shelter caves" in this area heavily bombed by the Americans, who emptied the bomb bays of their bombers before landing at their base.
Here, a new difficulty arose. The dugout canoe wouldn't continue! Everyone disembarked to check into the local hotel. We refused to stay there since we were expected at our hotel, an hour's canoe ride further south. Another negotiation, once again masterfully handled by our logistics expert, and we were off again for the final leg of the journey, which was to take us to Nong Kiaw, where we were expected at the Mandala Ou River Resort.
The route is considerably more interesting and the scenery more beautiful, although sometimes obscured by the smoke produced by Jean-Pierre; around a bend in the river, gigantic limestone formations make us feel tiny. The hotel on the banks of the Nam Ou is charming and vaguely reminiscent of the same type of hotel we find in French Polynesia.
It is run by an unlikely, aging male duo, one English, the other German. There aren't beds as such, but rather a kind of enormous concrete box in which the mattress is placed. I feel sorry for the staff who have to make the beds every day… A delightful dinner by the river. Each seat has a blanket to ward off the evening chill. An uneventful, comfortable night with a walk-in shower, but with a curtain.
January 27, 2024
After breakfast, we take a taxi to Luang Prabang, 144 km away. Instead of having lunch in Kouang Si to admire the famous waterfalls, we opted to visit the sacred caves of Pak Ou, a kilometer downstream from the confluence of the Nam Ou River with the magnificent Mekong…
We settled into the excellent My Dream Boutique Resort, nestled in a beautiful tropical garden, with two swimming pools, one of which was teeming with young Korean women seeking thrills…
After lunch, we explored the city. Its beauty and cleanliness contrast sharply with the grime of some other cities, particularly the capital. We tried to visit the military museum, which was unfortunately closed for two days, but we were still able to tour the courtyard and admire some equipment, mostly of Russian manufacture; then, going from temple to temple, I was amazed by their richness and beauty; for my companions, this is commonplace.
And already, the Mekong promised us a superb sunset. We settled on the terrace of an interesting bistro overlooking the river, where numerous dugout canoes were lined up to position their tourists at the best possible angle for photos.
The route is considerably more interesting and the scenery more beautiful, although sometimes obscured by the smoke produced by Jean-Pierre; around a bend in the river, gigantic limestone formations make us feel tiny. The hotel on the banks of the Nam Ou is charming and vaguely reminiscent of the same type of hotel we find in French Polynesia.
It is run by an unlikely, aging male duo, one English, the other German. There aren't beds as such, but rather a kind of enormous concrete box in which the mattress is placed. I feel sorry for the staff who have to make the beds every day… A delightful dinner by the river. Each seat has a blanket to ward off the evening chill. An uneventful, comfortable night with a walk-in shower, but with a curtain.
January 27, 2024
After breakfast, we take a taxi to Luang Prabang, 144 km away. Instead of having lunch in Kouang Si to admire the famous waterfalls, we opted to visit the sacred caves of Pak Ou, a kilometer downstream from the confluence of the Nam Ou River with the magnificent Mekong…
We settled into the excellent My Dream Boutique Resort, nestled in a beautiful tropical garden, with two swimming pools, one of which was teeming with young Korean women seeking thrills…
After lunch, we explored the city. Its beauty and cleanliness contrast sharply with the grime of some other cities, particularly the capital. We tried to visit the military museum, which was unfortunately closed for two days, but we were still able to tour the courtyard and admire some equipment, mostly of Russian manufacture; then, going from temple to temple, I was amazed by their richness and beauty; for my companions, this is commonplace.
And already, the Mekong promised us a superb sunset. We settled on the terrace of an interesting bistro overlooking the river, where numerous dugout canoes were lined up to position their tourists at the best possible angle for photos.
Before arriving, I stopped in a tiny garden where a few paintings on display had caught my eye. I chatted with the painter, who was working on a new piece, and I couldn't resist. I bought a magnificent monk, who, for once, wasn't dressed in saffron yellow, printed on rice paper and delivered in a finely woven bamboo fiber roll that could be worn over the shoulder… clever. We had an aperitif of Prosecco, where, after a glass, a certain absentminded smoker stubbed out his cigarette in the peanut tin… then dinner at Manda de Laos, a superb restaurant built around a lily pond and surrounded by tropical plants and trees. Impeccable food, wine, and service. Our friend Jean Baillaud, uncompromising as ever, treated us to this magnificent dinner.
We were happy, but this return to "civilization" already carried the scent of departure, of the end of an adventure…
January 28, 2024
4:30 a.m.
Up in there! We set our alarms for this time because, at 5:30 a.m., a taxi come to pick us up at the hotel so we could go and collect alms for the monks of Luang Prabang…
At 5:15 a.m., we were in front of the hotel with our bags of food, which we intended to give to these very special religious figures, so present throughout the city and intimately connected to the entire population. We saw the hotel's neighbors, across the street, laying out their prayer rugs and offerings for any monks who might pass by.
5:30 a.m.
Still no taxi, even though other hotel guests had already taken theirs… the receptionist, alerted by Jean, went out of his way to try and find us the vehicle we were hoping for. A small group of monks arrived and stopped to pray in front of the neighbors, who gave them alms and prayed with them. Water was poured on the ground, along with a few rice balls, food meant for the spirits, but actually eaten by passing dogs.
The wait continued, and around 6:00 a.m., a tuk-tuk finally arrived and made itself available. We traveled through streets still dimly lit by streetlights until we reached the main avenue, arriving just minutes before the long, saffron-hued procession of men in kesa (the robes of Buddhist monks) began, all there to receive Tak Bat (alms).
We were happy, but this return to "civilization" already carried the scent of departure, of the end of an adventure…
January 28, 2024
4:30 a.m.
Up in there! We set our alarms for this time because, at 5:30 a.m., a taxi come to pick us up at the hotel so we could go and collect alms for the monks of Luang Prabang…
At 5:15 a.m., we were in front of the hotel with our bags of food, which we intended to give to these very special religious figures, so present throughout the city and intimately connected to the entire population. We saw the hotel's neighbors, across the street, laying out their prayer rugs and offerings for any monks who might pass by.
5:30 a.m.
Still no taxi, even though other hotel guests had already taken theirs… the receptionist, alerted by Jean, went out of his way to try and find us the vehicle we were hoping for. A small group of monks arrived and stopped to pray in front of the neighbors, who gave them alms and prayed with them. Water was poured on the ground, along with a few rice balls, food meant for the spirits, but actually eaten by passing dogs.
The wait continued, and around 6:00 a.m., a tuk-tuk finally arrived and made itself available. We traveled through streets still dimly lit by streetlights until we reached the main avenue, arriving just minutes before the long, saffron-hued procession of men in kesa (the robes of Buddhist monks) began, all there to receive Tak Bat (alms).
Here, almsgiving takes on the air of an industrial operation! A very long mat of woven bamboo was laid out along the avenue. Small blue plastic chairs were lined up like soldiers on parade, and young women handed us a scarf to be worn over the left shoulder and crossed over the chest. We had to remove our shoes and sit or kneel.
Slowly, the long procession moved on until the last monk disappeared… the same ceremony unfolded on other avenues and side streets, with the same solemnity. We gave the young women some money to lend us the scarf and headed back towards the night market. We followed a narrow alley lined with vendors selling all sorts of things. They even sold small birds released in little bamboo baskets.
You paid and you could set the bird free! Jacky suspected these vendors of freedom had tamed the birds, which then returned "home"... Fascinating Asia... We were already thinking about returning to Vientiane...
We reluctantly left this magnificent city and took a taxi to the train station. Unfortunately, our train had been moved up by two hours. Another trip through the station's scanner. Jacky was worried about his knife, but this time security was interested in the gas canister for his stove! His knife went through without a hitch!
To be continued...
Slowly, the long procession moved on until the last monk disappeared… the same ceremony unfolded on other avenues and side streets, with the same solemnity. We gave the young women some money to lend us the scarf and headed back towards the night market. We followed a narrow alley lined with vendors selling all sorts of things. They even sold small birds released in little bamboo baskets.
You paid and you could set the bird free! Jacky suspected these vendors of freedom had tamed the birds, which then returned "home"... Fascinating Asia... We were already thinking about returning to Vientiane...
We reluctantly left this magnificent city and took a taxi to the train station. Unfortunately, our train had been moved up by two hours. Another trip through the station's scanner. Jacky was worried about his knife, but this time security was interested in the gas canister for his stove! His knife went through without a hitch!
To be continued...